Though we Women of Wine are routinely spotted drinking Port year-round, this is the time of year when it’s nearly irresistible. Cold evening by the fire, after a proper winter feast… it’s definitely an iconic Port moment. And more than any other kind of Port — Tawny is easily the most accessible and versatile.

First, a brief recitation of what makes a Tawny Port… In a nutshell, Port can be divided into two groups: cask-aged and bottle-aged. Bottle-aged Ports (which include Vintage Ports) do receive some time in oak, but the vast majority of their aging takes place in bottle.

Tawny Ports fall into the cask-aged category, made by blending numerous lots of Port wines that have been aging in oak for a number of years. During this aging time, the wines lose their intense, inky purple color and take on more of a tawny color, as well as nuttiness, caramel character and other oak-influenced flavors. The final blend attempts to combine the best of the older, complex wines with the more fruity, bright flavors of the younger wines.

The bottles of Tawny are labeled according to the average age of the blended wine lots, thus “10-Year,” “20-Year,” etc., and are ready to drink upon release. The only exception here is a Colheita Tawny, which is produced from wines from a single harvest, and so have a “standard” vintage date on the label.

Now about their versatility… A visit to Portugal can illustrate the extent to which Port can be a part of daily life. It is routinely ordered as an aperitif, slightly chilled and mixed with a splash of soda and a citrus twist. (Seriously, try this — it’s so refreshing and tasty!) And if you just need a taste of something sweet after a meal, you could hardly do better than a Tawny.

As for food pairings, think creamy and/or nutty. Creamy cheeses (triple cream Brie, Brillat Savarin, St. Andre), even fruited cream cheese tortes are heavenly with Tawny. Also creamy desserts — custard-based tarts, cheesecakes, creme brulee and the like. Or simply macerate some seasonal fresh fruit in a generous glug of Tawny for a couple of hours before spooning over good quality vanilla ice cream. Peaches work beautifully here, by the way, as do supremes (no-skin, no-membrane segments) of a variety of citrus fruits. Nut brittles and nut-based cookies are also delicious with Tawnies, as are just about anything with a nutty topping or crust. Yup, the possibilities are endless!

Try whipping up a batch of pecan-studded Mexican Wedding Cookies to go with your Tawny — they’re a snap to make and they keep well! Here’s a quick recipe: